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When curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has left the family utterly astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest restaurant securing such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.